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HindustanTimes.com » Infotainment » Lifestyle » Travel » Story
Romancing Rumtek || Photos

HindustanTimes.com

New Delhi, March 2, 2007
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Driving Holidays in the Himalayas — Sikkim
Author:
Koko Singh
Publisher: Rupa and Co

Here is an extract:

March and April is probably the best time to visit one of our smallest, but possibly most beautiful state — Sikkim. Before you skip to another page thinking it’s too far and not for you, hold it and read on for a few moments!

No, the distance didn’t shrink — it’s around 1,500 km from Delhi — but costs certainly did and connectivity is vastly improved.
 
The overnight train journey on Guwahati Rajdhani to Siliguri (New Jalpaiguri station), doesn’t pinch the pocket and air fares are now around Rs 8,000 for a round-trip on the daily two-hour flight to Siliguri (Bagdogra). From here it is a 3-4 hour drive in a hired car or the shared jeep service that plies regularly.

Depending on the kind of holiday you’re planning for yourself, you could choose to stay in either the lively but somewhat crowded capital Gangtok or in the quiet verdant environs of Rumtek, just 23 km from Gangtok.

 Know your onions
In Gangtok - the best momos are at Hotel Tibet; Indian food or a traditional Sikkimese meal at Tashi Delek; music and multi-cuisine at House of Bamboo, Baker’s Café for pizzas and lively action, Porky’s (Deorali) for good sizzlers.

Gompas (solitary place), were initially built in remote places so monks could isolate themselves to meditate and pray — a kind of sophistication of the caves they used to retreat to during Buddha’s time. With growing patronage, these gompas developed into elaborate edifices that also doubled as teaching centres.

Along the banks of Teesta
The drive up from Siliguri along the powerful gushing Teesta River (which has great rafting up to May!) and through rich forests is no simple commute — it’s the beginning of a wonderful holiday! Just 12 km short of Gangtok is a road to the left leading to Rumtek and its spectacular monastery — the seat of the Gyalwa Karmapa, the head of the Kagyupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

This magnificent three-storied building is the largest monastery in Sikkim and although completed as recently as 1966, it is built in the traditional Tibetan style. The monastery has a large courtyard and a vibrantly painted entrance depicting the Four Great Kings of the cardinal directions.

Catch a Golden Birdwing
A must for nature lovers is a visit to the Ipecac Gardens. Spread over 6 acres, it carries an amazing variety of orchid species as well as medicinal plants. A large number of the butterflies Sikkim is famed for can be seen here, adding to the riot of colours — if you are lucky you might spot one called Golden Birdwing whose existence is as endangered as that of the tiger!

Gangtok (‘high hill’), lies at a comfortable 5,500 ft and overlooks rich emerald-hued terraces and offers amazing views of the Khanchendzonga range. As a visitor, one of the first things you notice (with envy!), is the overall cleanliness, lack of litter, orderly roads and a strong sense of civic awareness. The people are unfailingly courteous and helpful so moving around is no problem at all.

Staying options
Gangtok
(STD code 03592)

Norkhill - Ph: 205637
www.elginhotels.com

Chumbi Residency - Ph: 226618
slg_chumbi@sancharnet.in

Norbhugang - Ph: 202237

New Castle - Ph: 281707

====================

Rumtek (STD code 03592)

Shambala - Ph: 252440

Martam - Ph: 203314

Teen Talay - Ph: 252256

Going the Gompa way
For a quick glimpse of the Buddhist tradition, you can stop at the Research Institute of Tibetology that houses an impressive collection of ancient manuscripts, tangkhas, coins and other artifacts. Set in a charming grove of oak and birch, this abuts the Chogyal Palden Thondup Namgyal memorial park which is a sylvan oasis in the city and great for a quiet walk. Also in the vicinity — about 500 m uphill — is the Do-Drul (Phurba) Chorten, an impressive white stupa with a gilded apex, surrounded by two smaller chortens and 108 prayer wheels with the mystic mantra Om Mane Padme Hum (Hail Jewel in the Lotus).

Climbing up to the Ridge area you must stop at the permanent flower show with its fantastic array of Sikkim’s exotic flora. The 200-year-old Enchey Gompa is certainly worth a visit. The prayer hall is resplendent with rich wall hangings, frescoes and there are magnificent images of Lord Buddha flanked by Guru Padmasambhava and Avalokiteswara.

For those keen on wildlife, a visit to the local zoo is a must; the animals are housed in open enclosures in relatively natural surroundings. Opposite its entrance is a charming little temple, Ganesh Tok, which boasts brilliant views of the snow peaks.

Other great spots that offer excellent views of the mighty Khanchendzonga and adjoining peaks, particularly at sunrise, are the lofty modern temple of Hanuman Tok (7,200 ft) and Tashiding View Point. And Gangtok is just the tip of an iceberg --- it is the base of day excursions to the beautiful high altitude lakes Tsomgo and Menmecho and the Nathu La pass, which at 14,400 ft serves as our border with China.

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